Knits!
Knit fabrics are used many of the comfy clothes popular today. Your sweaters, t-shirts, and yoga pants are all knits. So are some dresses. Knits have a number of qualities that make them super easy to identify. But first, I would like to take a second and explain their unique creation.
Knits are created by interlocking loops of yarns. This used to be done only by hand but is now done on knitting machines (though tons of people so still hand knit). Either way you do it the two techniques are the same. Each interlocking loop is created by a single stitch (a stitch is created when you put a new loop of yarn through an old loop and then cast off). Then these stitches make up an entire garment or piece of fabric. The two major types of knits are weft knits and warp knits. (more…)
Learn About: Woven Fabrics
This post on the nitty-gritty details of woven fabrics is a part of series by Jacqueline Gross, our stateside connection (she hails from Michigan) and resident fabric and textile guru. Check back (or subscribe to our feed) to learn about knits, and common fabrics.
Knowing the type of fabric you are using is important! (You can tell because I put an exclamation point). The weight, stretch, as well as, other important fabric qualities will affect the look of your finished project. In the next few weeks, I’ll be taking you through the ins and outs of fabrics. Today, we look at woven fabrics.
When you think woven fabrics think of looms. Woven fabrics are produced on looms. Understanding the creation of woven fabrics helps us to understand their nature. A woven fabric is created when you have warp yarns and filling yarns. Weaving (what you do on a loom) is interlacing these two yarns. There are three basic types of weaves, and regardless of the complexity of the weave they still fall under these three classifications. They are: plain weave, satin weave, and twill weave.
Dyeing with Natural Dye
Going green is an active part of our lifestyle today, so why not take that a step further and move it into the wilderness. By that I mean dyeing fabric with natural dye (duh!). Summer is ending and fall edging its way in. This is the season of harvest, so after you are done picking apples and blueberries, let’s talk clothes.
People have been dyeing with natural dyes forever. I mean that is how it all began until we realized that we had alternatives… called chemicals. So go on a nature-hike, explore the wild, or go online and order natural dye, but you have to try it out!
A Sewing Space
Having a good space to sew is important. You need room to work, the right tools, and a good atmosphere. I like to have a lot of light and a big open area. But there are a few things you cannot do without:
Scissors or rotary cutters
Some people are partial to rotary cutters and some like scissors. I keep both on hand. No seamstress can work without scissors, but rotary cutters are indispensable for cutting straight lines, cutting through multiple layers of fabric, and for quilting. Both scissors and rotary cutters work best when they really sharp and used only for fabric. The best way to dull a great pair of scissors is to use them for arts and crafts day. Cutting paper ruins fabric scissors!
Iron and Ironing Board
Iron and ironing boards are very important because pressing and crisp lines help to make your garment look more professional. Now, people will not be able to tell if you have made your garment or bought it.
Cutting table
Have an area or a table dedicated to cutting. You need a space large enough that you can completely lay your pattern out flat, and prep your fabric. Make sure your sewing space is not in a walk way or your little brother’s play area. Large tables and wood floors work best.
Organization
Finally, have an organizer. They sell them at your local fabric store. It is a place to put all of your pins, needles, scissors and measuring tape. Use a good organizer, and you will never be stuck looking for your stitch ripper or marking chalk again! As a bonus, a good organizer can be portable, if necessary, like if you were off to the sewing studio.
What do you keep in your sewing room? Tell us about your space! Post pictures!
Jacalyn
Rust Dye!
Not finding the right fabric at your local fabric shop? You can always take a white fabric and dye it. There are many types and ways to dye fabrics. A rust dye is a great option, because rust dye gives pattern and texture to your fabric.
Things you need:
1. Cotton or Silk fabric (natural fabrics take rust dye better)
2. Rusty objects
3. Vinegar
Take your fabric and wet it. Place it next to the rusty objects. If you are using just water it will take a week. If you want to speed up the process you will need vinegar and that usually requires a 24 hour period (straight vinegar will produce the quickest results).
For the rusty objects, be creative – you can use nails, wire wrapped around fabric, a pipe and much more. These objects will all create different textures and patterns. You can also sprinkle iron mordant on your fabric or use old cookie cutters.
You can push a dye a little more by washing with a salt water solution and then repeating the above process. The salt water bath will keep the dye form rotting through the fabric.
Rust does not usually come out of fabric. To ensure this does not happen though, it has been said that if you soak your fabric in baking soda solution once a year you will preserve the fabrics overall appearance and condition.
-Jacalyn-
Ode to Vivienne Westwood
The History
The person who made punk possible. Born on April 8, 1941 in what is now part of Derybyshire. We are speaking of Vivian Isabel Swire, who we know better as, Vivienne Westwood after her marriage to her first husband Derek. Vivienne began her professional career as a school teacher but, luckily for us, that all changed when she met Malcolm Mclaren the man who made it all possible. After her subsequent divorce and remarriage to Malcolm. Vivienne began to design for a shop Malcolm opened in 1971, called Let It Rock.
The Style
Punk, Vivienne’s token style took off after the Sex Pistols wore clothing from their shop at their first show. Punk, a mixture of razor blades, bike chains, and other vicious odds and ends including spike collars, was all the rave. In addition to these elements, drastic hairstyles and makeup were also included. Vivienne used unusual cutting lines from the 17th and 18th century cutting principles and then reinventing it in her designs to make them more unique.
Today
Vivienne is not just a fashion designer but also a political activist. In 2005 Vivienne paired up with a civil rights group called Liberty and made a line of baby clothes and t-shirts with the slogan, “I AM NOT A TERRORIST, please don’t arrest me”. In 2008, Easter Sunday, she did the biggest campaigns for nuclear disparagement in ten years all of it in person.
-Jacalyn-
Photoshop if You Don’t Already Know!!!
Photoshoots are a great way for you to get your designs noticed and help you to increase someone’s perception of your style and inspiration. Assuming you are not a big budget designer you will have to do a lot of the work yourself. This means lighting, styling and makeup. You may even have to be the photographer.
Photoshop is a fabulous tool to make sure that your prints turn out great! Photoshop can get rid of red eye and lighten pictures that have been shot in bad lighting. It can add the idea of motion to a picture. You can even create new backgrounds.
You can create fabrics on this program itself, then map them onto a fashion figure. This will show off your design skills to anyone who is trying to hire you.
To do this:
• Take pictures of your models in all white garments you have created.
• Scan them in.
• Then start creating your fabrics.
• Map your models and apply. You can even show movement of the clothes on this program.
Don’t have time to find a model or just do not know anyone to ask? You can find some models dressed in all white, online. Make a fabric for the design and apply it!!!
This program has endless possibilities!!!
-Jacalyn-
